Pliny the Elder

One man’s rare and sacred brew is another man’s widely-available West Coast IPA.  So you could imagine my excitement when a friend passed along a Russian River Pliny the Elder for my enjoyment. I’ve already read several other bloggers hyping this beer up, even ones in United Kingdom and Ireland! By my calculations, that’s much farther from Santa Rosa, California than Richmond, Virginia.

But you see, I’m not easily taken in by the chatterings of others. I’m the type of person that avoids seeing a popular movie or band until I feel the time is right, in an attempt to assess the situation with a modicum of objectivity. Popular opinion does not sway me.

On the other hand, sometimes popular opinion is dead-on no matter what. Pliny the Elder appears to be a beer beyond reproach – the closest thing to a benchmark you could ask for in the beer world. From hopheads to malt mavens, you’ll find people of varying tastes and backgrounds profusely praising the Pliny. And not without reason.

Pliny pours a see-through orange sunburst color with a brilliant white head of foam that’s slow to settle. Cloud-like on top, even. A quick sniff lets me pick up pine with orange citrus notes, and they’re softer than expected. And believe it or not, so is the taste. After hearing hop-heads from all over the country raving about this beer, I figured it would be a palate’s worst nightmare. Apparently, that’s more Pliny the Younger than his father, but still, I’m amazed at how drinkable this beer is. Sure, there’s a formidable hoppiness, but it’s one that you can still enjoy after a few sips.

At the forefront, I detect some resiny hop oil character on the tongue, with that orange citrus playing a greater role than floral or sharper citrus notes, although they’re still in there, too. What’s great about Pliny the Elder is the way the burst of hops subsides to a low roar by the time you get to the finish, leaving enough lingering to delight the tastebuds but not coat them excessively. My theory is the inherent dryness that subdues the hops, with the yeast getting a lot of attenuation to create a refreshing and flavorful beer. But that’s just my cursory glance on the subject.

The label indicates that this was bottled on April 20, 2009. Only a couple months out for this beer, and they most certainly get points for the freshness dating and the repeated instructions to consume this beer as fresh as possible. Behold the Old. Don’t age the Elder. Drink it fresh.

It was ages ago that a good friend and myself got the idea to set up an elegant “beer versus wine” dinner at a local restaurant here in Richmond. The idea behind it was to play upon the successful dinners of this ilk that have already taken place, hosted by the likes of Garrett Oliver, Sam Calagione, and Greg Koch. So not the most original idea, but something new for the Richmond area to chew on. No pun intended.

Anyway, we’d been painstakingly planning the courses and options for guests, beer and wine selections, and overall theme for the event – all while trying to keep it at a reasonable price. I approached some wine bloggers in the area, seeing if they were up for the challenge, and even got some minimal feedback. Restaurants, too, with one in particular picked out that seemed like a great choice.

The response,  “No. We’re going to be doing monthly beer tastings anyway. What’s the point?” Fair enough. But it seems that after a spate of beer dinners happening all over town, so many that I can hardly keep up with them, that one restaurant in the area has decided to run with this idea.

Can Can Brasserie is hosting a beer versus wine dinner on July 9th at 6:30pm. There’ll be three courses, accompanied by a beer and wine sample for each. Tickets are an all-inclusive $65, and your hosts will be Dave McGregor and Bob Talcott. Not sure about all the other details, but if you’re patient and do a little legwork, I’m sure you’ll find out eventually.

With so many of these dinners in abundance, it’s hard to make a call on which one to go to, let alone deciding to drop a pretty penny per ticket in order to attend. And while it may open some palates up to beer, at least when you juxtapose it with wine in a food setting, the inherent pricing (which I understand) is still somewhat exclusionary. Not to mention that half the time everyone finds out about them so late in the game. When I want to spend that kind of money, it better be a damn good date. But if that’s the case, beer won’t be dominating my every thought either.

Maybe I’m just not cut out for this whole “beer nerd” thing after all. Vive la indifférence!

What began in earnest as a small beer tasting at my apartment evolved into quite the selection of beers for sampling and a relatively small amount of people to try them. No problems there for a room full of beer lovers.

Mittelfrueh

Mittelfrueh, seen here creating his famous Puppy Knackwurst.

Looking at the lineup, we had some heavy hitters. Among the selection was a year-old Allagash Fluxus, a Deschutes Inversion IPA, two offerings from Fantôme, a Tröegs Scratch #15, a HaandBrygerriet Dark Force, and a growler of Pisgah Pale Ale. The man, the myth, the legend Ed Medina even graced us with his presence, and brought along a Laurelwood Organic Portland Roast Espresso Stout rarely seen this side of the Mississippi.

The highlight for me had to be the Fantôme Hiver, their winter seasonal. Guests said they picked up the smell and flavor of pickles, some to their disgust, but I liked it. It was a dry, crisp, refreshing saison with a touch of what I perceived to be vinegar. Good stuff.

We also had the opportunity to try some beers from Shooting Creek, the relatively new brewery out in Floyd County. Both the Buffalo Brown and Snapping Turtle IPA were decent, but nothing mindblowing. I’d be interested to see what else becomes available from them.

If you couldn’t tell, it was a fantastic way to spend a Sunday afternoon. It was great meeting some new people and seeing familiar faces, all arriving with delicious beer to share. Notebookless, I didn’t bother writing any descriptions down to share with you. But had you shown up, you could’ve experienced these beers first-hand. Don’t worry though, you’ll have a chance to make it up next time around, providing you’ve got something tasty to share with the class.

After a trip up north, a friend of mine recently gifted me with a single can of Sly Fox Dunkel Lager from Pennsylvania. Okay, that’s not quite accurate. I still owe him for the haul, which shall be paid forthwith. Regardless, possession is nine-tenths of the law, and I’m ready to have a beer.

The reason (as if I needed one)? Today I helped a friend move to Alexandria, primarily as a two-man team due to unforeseen circumstances (read: flakeage), and it involved a lot of stairs and even more lifting. So this cold one is all the more delicious.

Sly Fox Dunkel pours ruby and crystal clear, sporting just over two fingers of off-white foam on top. I’m able to pick up biscuity and slightly roasted malt notes in the nose.

Following the very first sip, I realize immediately that this is a beer to be admired. Right off the starting line, I get a juicy, flavorful hit of grainy goodness accompanied by a hop profile that’s not weak, but also doesn’t throw things out of balance. It finishes refreshingly, leaving only the slightest trace of sweetness behind. I’m a sucker for beers that do that – a punch of flavor up front that drops out and makes you thirsty for more. The carbonation and semi-dry body make for an incredibly drinkable beer. And right now, I’m more into the drinking aspect than the thinking one.

In fact, it’s so drinkable, I’m more than halfway through and am already starting to regret picking it up so quickly and tipping it back the way I have been, seeing as how I only have the one can. I’d get into all the IBUs and abv, but at the moment, I just don’t give a damn. The only thing on my mind is the fact that my thirst for dark lager has been slaked, at least until my glass is empty.

I’ve been a fan of ice hockey for as long as I can remember. As a youngster playing street hockey, staying up late to watch the 1994 Stanley Cup Finals between the New York Rangers and the Vancouver Canucks, or going to watch the ECHL (and then AHL) Norfolk Admirals play at Scope Arena. The pace of the game, the skill and finesse required, and yes, even the excitement of the fights, had me hooked.

Then I realized, nobody cares. Hockey is a marginalized sport in the United States, whereas in Canada it’s considered sacred. Apply that same principle to soccer, then tell me how many Kansas City Wizards fans you know. The MLS and NHL are both “lesser” sports in the eyes of the American public, but that’s changing. You’ll see vociferous fans of both sports around if you look hard enough, and their fanbases are growing.

Along those lines, an interesting turn of events has taken place recently. George Gillet, co-owner of my favorite squad in the English Premier League, Liverpool FC, has recently ceded his 80% share of the Montreal Canadiens to the Molson family for an estimated $550 million. Pending approval from the league, this move would give Molson complete control over the team, Bell Centre arena, and the Gillet Entertainment Group since they already have 20% stake.

Gillet’s partner at Liverpool is Tom Hicks, owner of the Dallas Stars. Hockey’s success in the South has been growing, with fans in Dallas seeing several playoff games over the years thanks to the team’s success. Home attendance for Nashville Predators has risen since their humble beginnings, also more than likely due to playoff appearances. And when teams do well, people pay attention.

Take, for instance, the United States’ 2-0 win yesterday over Spain in the Confederations Cup. While the Cup is a prelude to World Cup action next year, a victory over one of the best national teams in the world might raise a few eyebrows, re-energize the fanbase, and introduce others to the game.

If you haven’t noticed by now, I’m on a tangent. Point is, Molson bought the Canadiens. Beer and hockey. That is all. Good day.

One Friday afternoon found me standing downstairs at the Legend Pub and Brewery with none other than head brewer John Wampler. Looking half-casual, half-scientist with his John Wamplert-shirt, boots, and beaker full of beer, he offered me a belt of Legend’s Double IPA straight from the tank, albeit without much carbonation. So far so good – tasted very drinkable for a heavy-duty IPA, but had some depth to it as well. A rather fitting analogy for the brewery itself.

Before I could even launch into the questions, John wanted to show me around. I had peeked around the ol’ Legend brewhouse once or twice in the past, but hadn’t yet seen the expansion that had taken place. There used to be case after case of beer from some very recognizable names in the beer world just sitting in one part of the warehouse, but all that space was now replaced with new equipment. Since Legend spun off their distribution arm, Legendary Distributors, they now had room to add a bottling line and more fermentation tanks. Thus, more Legend product to the market.

After showing me the copper-colored 10-barrel pilot system that the brewery originally started with, I walked the rows of tanks housed in the bowels of the building, eventually seeing the seven new fermentation tanks and the five new ones reserved for clearing or “brightening.” These additions are attached to their current 30-barrel brewing system. Obviously, this expansion all boils down to demand.

But what really drove this demand is a new format. Legend will now bottle their beer in six-packs, as opposed to the familiar 22oz. bottles that have cropped up all over town (and in other towns as well). Why six-packs? “There’s a proven package with six-packs. Customers seem to prefer that size for whatever reason, and this could catapult us into out-of-state Legend Brown Sixer Packagingsales that we haven’t had before” said Wampler. “The demand [for Legend six-packs] has been there for a while. But after dealing with these 22s, 12-ounce bottles almost seem tiny.” The initial run in the sixer setup seems to be Legend Lager, Brown, Pale Ale, and their IPA, commonly referred to or once-known-as Golden Ale.

Due to the brewery’s focus on expansion not only inside the brewhouse but on the shelves as well, John mentioned that the “focus is now on the flagships or mainstays of our lineup.” Since the product is expected to reach many customers outside of Legend’s current distribution sphere, it’ll take time to introduce them to beers they’ve never seen before. Wampler confided that over half the tanks at Legend were storing Legend Brown. What about those seasonal releases? Fear not, John assured me that they’ll still get their seasonals in there once the public gets acquainted, or reacquainted, with Legend’s foundation offerings. And if you’re looking for special releases, more than likely they’ll be on tap, or cask, at the pub.

Taking a step back, I ask, “Who in their right mind would be expanding at a time like this?” John made it out to be a matter of necessity. “We needed to expand, and it was a good time to do it.” And from the looks of it, they haven’t been suffering. Though Wampler made it clear that he leaves the bean-counting to the accountants, and the brewing to himself and his staff.

On a related note, I wanted to get his insight on the Richmond market, particularly market saturation in the better beer sector. Asked if he thought Richmond is becoming saturated, John replied, “We’re there. We have enough clout with the beer-drinking crowd, and the beers are good enough to stand on their own.” By shooting for balance and drinkability, Legend strives to reach the public with flavorful beers that will entice you to order another. “We want these beers to be accessible, and have a little something for everybody. If you can’t find something you like, you’re not a craft beer drinker.” That versatility has paid off. “The craft beer consumer has taken us in, held us as a stalwart, or a steady go-to, if you will.”

Humulus the Brewery Cat

Humulus the Brewery Cat

Playing on the attention that beer and food pairings have garnered recently, I inquired as to Wampler’s favorite. He scratched his head for a second, then was reminded of the combination that opened his eyes to how great of a match beer can be to food. It was four years ago at a Legend beer dinner, hosted by the Greene Leafe in Williamsburg, where John tried an egg nog cheesecake matched up with a Legend Barleywine that was a year and a half old. He said he hasn’t tasted anything quite like it since, but the appreciation for pairing still remains.

Wrapping it all up, I ask John what gets him out of bed in the morning, what aspect of brewing does he loves most. He replied, “The little headaches that end up making a delicious product, and being able to see the results of your work right there. It’s a great crew of guys, and when you’re managing a small team, you develop much more productive relationships. In the end, you’re taking raw material and turning it into a satisfying final product.”

At that point, it was quittin’ time for John, a time to tie up any loose ends the week had brought him and head home to his family. For me, it was upstairs to the bar for a Legend Hefeweizen and some time to contemplate the effort put into such a satisfying final product.

There are so many beer events scheduled lately, it’s hard to keep up. Slightly overwhelming, really. Don’t get me wrong, I like to post the latest local beer happenings on this blog when I can, but there comes a point where you have to step away from those glowing rectangles for a bit and enjoy life – whether at a beer festival or not.

So if you haven’t heard by now, All About Beer is bringing their World Beer Festival to Richmond this summer. Virginia Beer Festival coming up on Fourth of July weekend. Northern Virginia’s fest happening this weekend. Others have offered their insights, so no need to go on here. Same with other stuff happening that I’m just too lazy to post about. Technology has left me behind, so read go their blogs. The CRABB sidebar is a good place to start!

Instead, I’ve got my own event coming up. Sunday Sippage. At 1pm this Sunday, I plan on cracking some beers with a relatively small group of people at my apartment. No big hoopla, and no princely sum of an entrance fee. Just a few beer nerdarios supplying at least a bottle each. There will be snacks. There will be Steely Dan. There will probably not be blood. But you never know.

If you’d like to join, email me here.

According to Greg Kitsock over at the Washington Post, next month Blue Mountain Brewery will be the first microbrewery in Virginia to can its products. It appears that several smaller breweries around the country are shifting to cans, at least in some small way, for a variety of reasons. Be it protection of the beer’s quality to portability for consumers, the shift is happening, and it’s finally coming to Virginia’s better beer lovers.

How’s that for following up on last post’s packaging theme? And I think I’ll make that the new state slogan:  Virginia is for better beer lovers. What’dya think?

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