I had planned to post an overview of a few special Alts I’ve enjoyed earlier, but time hasn’t permitted that. Suffice to say I’ve been keeping busy with a host of other non-beer related things called “life.” Well, that and transferring the Belgian Dubbel me and Steve cooked up to secondary fermentation.
Anyway, I had this little review session in mind before I got to try the Uerige Doppelsticke on cask at Capital Ale House, so here goes…
Long Trail Double Bag
A moderately vigorous pour produces roughly a centimeter of brilliant white head that doesn’t stick around for too long before its merely a few colonies of bubbles on top of a completely transparent, copper-amber hued beer. But this one is more than just eye candy. The aroma is complex yet subdued; hints of sugary fruit, butterscotch, caramel converge with a nutty malt backbone. Despite the myriad of estery notes, the beer still retains a clean profile as well.
The well-rounded malt character makes the Double Bag a palate-pleaser up front. Toffee and toasted malt notes are featured at the outset, with a slightly warming alcohol feel toward the middle. At this point, the hops enter the picture, providing ample but restrained bitterness alongside the alcohol, which truly isn’t that noticeable and blends into the background. The finish is immaculately clean, as lagers tend to do, but also leaves a bit of sweetness and hop bitterness lingering for a rather pleasing aftertaste.
Apparently, Long Trail modeled this after the Sticke, or “secret”, Altbiers of Germany, which were intended as special releases for those in the know, making for a well-balanced yet complex secret I’m glad to be in on.
Zum Uerige Sticke Alt
Burgundy and russet hues fill the glass, growing more amber at the bottom when held to light. Just over a finger of tightly-bubbled head forms at the top, leaving a thick web of lace around the sides as it gently recedes. The much-fabled Zum Uerige Sticke Alt is in my glass, and I couldn’t be more excited to try it.
Giving it time to warm up a few degrees, I begin to think of the prestige and weight this beer carries, especially in its home city of Dusseldorf. Breathing in the aromatics, I instantly notice several characteristics that indicate a complicated beer. An earthy hop aroma seems to intertwine with a layer of Pilsner malt, that grainy and bready scent mingling further with toffee, dark fruit, and a hint of licorice perhaps. There was something there that indicated an acidity, which was more like tart berries, in a sense.
Caramel and that grainy Pilsner malt combine for a schizophrenic introduction, but one that provides
immediate balance. This leads to a juicy center where the earthy hop and toasted, toffee-like flavors are left to ease delicately off the palate. There is a drying quality to the finish, as hints of molasses and spice make a brief appearance during the exit. As the beer warms, the malt profile makes itself more apparent, becoming almost chewy and more viscous.
I’m quite surprised at how this beer changes, even over the course of less than five minutes. The drying, Pilsner feel begins to take a backseat to the sweet, malty tones that lie beneath. I can understand why this is a classic, and why some wish to keep it a secret.
Zum Uerige Doppelsticke Alt
Ah, time for the Doppel. This dark beauty pours a flat, hazy mahogany hue, with russet and copper highlights toward the bottom of the glass. One centimeter of white head forms on top and leaves as soon as it came. In the nose, there’s the aroma of figs or dark fruit combined with caramel malt, a hint of earthiness, and, maybe it’s just me, but I still pick up that boozy, Old Ale-esque fragrance.
The tongue reflects the aromatics with one exception; again, just like its sibling, this beer has a hoppier-than-expected side. But that’s not a bad thing by any means. In fact, that unsuspecting bitterness lends character to this beer, and illustrates the beer’s complexity when stacked up against raisiny, fig-like flavors. On cask, the same characteristics come through, only with a more “alive” feeling but at the same time a muted one, like that of a Real Ale.
To me, this sort of takes some of the best elements of other beer styles and conjures up a wholly different taste, and it shows. For some reason, it feels like Alt’s northern German roots, especially when it comes to Sticke, has an element of style influence from other countries, such as Belgium and the United Kingdom. And for some reason, I don’t seem to want to stop drinking it.
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