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I like to consider myself a student of beer, somewhat in the vein of Plato: “I know that I know nothing.” Or maybe that’s more like Sgt. Schultz. Regardless, I’ve identified a certain flavor profile I can’t get enough of, and discovered the delicious offerings of a brewery I’ve been waiting to get my hands on. Both have led me to appreciate the intricacies of flavor and the challenges brewers face with Ringwood yeast.

Reining in the diacetyl notes is the biggest issue when dealing with Ringwood. I’ve heard some rumblings that many detest the strain completely because of these buttery or butterscotch flavors, but I’m a fanatic. I’m finding that amongst German and Czech lagers, that rounded diacetyl taste is what I live for; and with ales, it’s that good ol’ fashioned Ringwood yeast that hits the spot for me.

Characteristic of many classic English ales, Ringwood has gained a small cult following here in the United States. In some beer I’ve loved, such as Geary’s Pale Ale, I had no idea that Ringwood was what played such an important role; I just knew I liked it. I even mentioned the Austin model brewing apparatus used by brewers that make some of my favorite beers in my write-up of Williamsburg AleWerks a while back. There’s also an informative article on the history of Ringwood in the States that appeared in Yankee Brew News, now hosted over at RealBeer.

This past weekend I had three offerings from a brewery I’ve yet to sample anything from: Portland, Maine’s . While visiting family this weekend, I picked up some Shipyard Export, Fuggles IPA, and Old Thumper.

The Export was phenomenal.

It poured a completely transparent, coppery goldenrod hue with some small flakes in suspension, with solid head formation and retention. The aroma was somewhat grainy pale malt with a certain funk to it, almost mildewy, but enticing. There was a soft touch of Werther’s Original in the nose (a candy I loved growing up, and still do), and that infamous aroma of buttery diacetyl.

I was sold at first sip. Plenty of Pilsner-like malt, nice and grain-like, up front crescendoed to a buttery-smooth middle that faded gracefully to a slightly dry finish that left behind some of those butter notes and a subtle hop bitterness. The palate was suprisingly complex, yet reserved and relaxed. The carbonation didn’t get in the way at all, letting the whirl of flavors speak for themselves. I was truly impressed.

When I got to the Fuggles IPA, I was a bit disappointed to be honest. While expecting a shade or two more of the hop strain that lent its name to the label, I got what seemed to be like more Export. Not that this beer was horrible, just that it didn’t seem to distinguish itself from the other beer all that much.

The Fuggles IPA also looked strikingly similar to the Export, except for the fact that there were no floaties and it may have been a hair more amber in color. In the bouquet, I could barely pick up the floral aromatics of the Fuggles, but that tempting buttery scent got me again. Still, I had to wonder about the bitterness level.

Even the taste was uncannily like that of the Export, with the grainy and diacetyl profile being prevalent. There more detectable hops in the taste, with a little bitterness up front, but not much to make this one stand out, unfortunately.

I was also slightly confused as the cap for the Export stated “1992-2007 / 15 Years”, while the cap for the IPA read “Est. 1994.” But according to their website, their brewpub started in 1992, while the brewery itself began putting out a larger variety in 1994. Case closed.

At the end of the evening, I also sampled the Old Thumper, which is a Ringwood Brewery/Shipyard production, and loved it. Didn’t take many notes on it, just absorbed for what it was and marked it as “tasty” in the memory bank.

But I must say, I’m officially enamored with the Ringwood yeast strain and Shipyard Brewery now that I’ve connected the dots.

Here’s to knowing nothing!

Let me preface this post by issuing a disclaimer: this is more industry news about Heineken. You have been forewarned.

On Tuesday I mentioned Heineken’s purchase of Drinks Union in the Czech Republic. Something that hadn’t occurred to me was all the buying and expansion happening elsewhere. In that post, I also included Carlsberg’s previous acquisition of Baltika in the Scottish & Newcastle deal. So how about some more Russian beer news?

Apparently, Heineken is planning to invest in its Volga Brewery, to the tune of €117 million, or about $182 million. The Volga Brewery produces Russian beer brands PIT, Okhota, and Bochkarev, which ranked in the top 20 Russian brands by Interbrand Zintzmeyer & Lux in 2007. However, the report also indicated that Bochkarev was on the decline last year.

By ramping up funds for improving efficiency and marketing, Heineken may yet become an even bigger player in the Russian beer market, and could revive brands that need assistance. They’ve already got their hands in several cookie jars there, such as Ivan Taranov Breweries and Stepan Razin, through the acquisition of St. Petersburg’s Bravo International.

So while Carlsberg is getting a big slice of the Russian pie with Baltic Beverage Holdings, Heineken wants its slice to get bigger. And with this investment, that may well happen.
Furthermore, after agreeing to a joint venture with Diageo and Namibia Breweries Ltd. in South Africa earlier this month, they’ve already broken ground on a new brewery just outside Johannesburg. The city’s economic daily Business Day reported that the DNH Drinks venture needed to complete the project as soon as possible because of the costs of importing Amstel into the country, according to analyst Chris Gilmour, and the facility is expected to be finished by the end of 2009.

At the end of the article, Mr. Gilmour alludes to the possibilty of a joint venture with Anheuser-Busch for the 2010 World Cup being held in South Africa. What better way to accommodate all those thirsty football fans than with a new megabrewery? Definitely a smart move on Heienken’s part.

But with so many lucrative deals going on these days, it’s hard to keep track of it all.

I took a little creative license with the cartoon at the top. My glib attempt at humor.

Tonight was a night I had planned just for me. After having put in extra work on the job for several consecutive days, it was time for a much deserved reward. And that, my friends, was a little college basketball and a Troegs Nugget Nectar vertical.

That’s right, from ‘06 to ‘08: three years of Nuggety Nectary magic.

Ever since my friend Marty shared a year-old one of these babies with me two years ago, I’ve been plotting on my own little vertical tasting. After drinking most of the stock I acquired in 2006, as tasty as it was, I had one remaining survivor. And tonight, he’d live no longer.

Let’s start at the beginning, shall we? First up was the 2006, and I gave it time to open up. There was a noticeable caramel malt presence, smelling sweet and toffee-like. Minimal on the hop aromas, but a mellowed Nugget scent came through, almost adding an earthy aroma. Also, it had an herbal quality, but only slightly and in the vein of dried sage. It actually resembled a Barleywine in the bouquet, for all intents and purposes.

On the initial sip, the first thing that stuck out was the relaxed carbonation, making the beer slide effortlessly across the palate and, because of the age, not leaving really anything behind. Overall, this beer was soft but still tasty in its own right, mostly the delicate toffee flavors that appeared toward the middle and finish. To make somewhat of a leap, it’s kind of like drinking a Werther’s Original with a faint, grassy hop flavor, but with no real bitterness of which to speak.

Moving on to the 2007 vintage, I found more of that earthy hop aroma, but with a stronger sense of, dare I say, animal urine. Sounds odd, but to be precise, it’s really a complex and herbal smell, with not so much of the toffee and malt coming through. There was more liveliness in regards to the hop profile, which was almost spicy, and the grassy notes had been ratcheted up a notch.

Again, very light in body, with carbonation at a minimum, although a hair more than the 2006. A more robust, albeit flattened, hop profile came through in the taste, with the tiniest hint of bitterness in the finish. Malt sweetness was diminutive here as well, but there was a general easy-drinking balance that allowed the hops to take center stage; all the taste, but very little bitterness involved.

Lastly we arrive at this year’s version. Here’s where the hops showed up, not surprisingly. There were nice grassy, herbal hop notes in the nose, with a grapefruit citrus flair, but not too strong. A maltier backbone is detected, making for an even more complex and engaging bouquet.

This was even more balanced fresh than I recall, which makes me think it was a good reason to do a vertical tasting. It completely mirrored its aromatics: the herbal and spicy complexity blending with the sweet, amber malt side for an impeccable balance. Carbonation was more perky, drawing attention to the hops, but at the same time emphasizing their subtlety. Oddly enough, the finishing bitterness seemed identical to the 2007, which I hadn’t expected.

I’ve always found Nugget Nectar from Troegs to be a fascinating seasonal release, but have only come to truly appreciate it with this vertical tasting. While I doubt it would be worth much after more than two years of cellaring, it certainly offered some perspective on how it ages over time. The next time you pick some up, drink it fresh, then stash some for a year. You’ll be amazed at the results.

Could all this talk of market saturation be just that, talk? According to the ever-observant BrewBlog from Miller, Anheuser-Busch plans on rolling out some new styles under the Michelob brand name. Here we go, this is A-B’s official take on Crafting a Better Beer.

The four styles Anheuser-Busch has applied for are as follows: Michelob Brown Ale, Michelob Red Ale, Michelob Bohemian Pilsner, and… wait for it… wait for itttt….. Michelob Dunkel Weisse!

I have no idea what they’ll taste like, and frankly, I’d like to get my hands on some when it becomes available. Not having tasted any of them yet, I’m going to go ahead and spout off about them anyway. Don’t like it? Start your own blog then.

First off, I see a strong parallel to the Miller Lite Brewers Collection, by offering styles that would seemingly appeal to a large portion of the general beer-drinking population. Can’t fault them for that, I guess. They are commercial brewing juggernauts after all, and their goal is to move some units. Tapping into the craft beer segment is a wise decision for their purposes.

For some reason, I’m holding out hope. I don’t know why, but I feel like this could be a more palatable answer to Miller’s two-pronged “lite” and “craft” approach. By not focusing on appealing to two different groups, it appears they’re targeting one in particular: the trade-uppers. Sure, Michelob is technically an “Amber” beer already, so how much different or phenomenal could the “Red Ale” be? And okay, maybe adding “Bohemian” in front of the word Pilsner may be slick marketing to draw people away from the “True Pilsner” that is Miller Lite. I don’t know, I’m no marketing genius.

The cynic in me wants to be doubtful, but the beer lover in me wants to remain hopeful.

Second, a Dunkel Weisse?! There’s this voice inside me saying, “This might not be half bad.” If you were competing with Blue Moon, Pyramid, and potentially this new Miller Lite Brewers Collection (one of which is an American Wheat Ale), wouldn’t you want to crank it up a notch? Make a dark wheat beer, and minds are blown. Sure, it could just be a little food coloring added to the mix, or it could be a tastier take on an American wheat-style beer. Only time will tell.

At the moment, the label approval will be for kegs only, but we may see bottles coming down the pipeline if the reception is positive and sales are successful. These four new beers will add to an already fairly diverse Michelob portfolio, but if they’re anything like their predecessors, we probably shouldn’t be expecting too much.

It seems to me, if you’re marketing something to craft beer lovers, you’d better step your game up. However, if you’re marketing something to the general beer-drinking public as “craft” in order to boost sales and/or command a premium price, you’re going to piss off a lot of beer geeks who probably aren’t buying your products anyway.

Is that the defintion of “win-win” or “mutual distrust”?

It looks like Dutch brewing powerhouse Heineken has swallowed up more smaller, weaker prey. This time, it’s Drinks Union in the Czech Republic.

Already owners of the Starbrono and Krušovice brands, Heineken is looking to increase their market share in the Czech Republic, a country they deem to be rife with potential for expansion. This move essentially gives Heineken 12 percent of the market share in the Czech Republic, although the price tag for the deal has yet to be revealed. Some people have had a problem with it for a while.

With Denmark’s Carlsberg successfully gaining control of Baltika through Baltic Beverage Holdings (BBH) as part of the deal for Scottish & Newcastle, Heineken has the opportunity to expand in a market that has yet to be fully tapped.

Both moves appear to be quite shrewd and well thought-out, as Eastern Europe seems to be ripe for the picking, so to speak. With a multitude of industrial-style lagers already saturating the place, it seems like a conglomeration of these breweries is a logical fit. This is not to say that all Eastern European lagers fall into this camp, just that it mirrors other countries in terms of sales of the cheaper, more commercial variety (see: the United States).

The danger is losing the variety of more traditional and exceptional beer being produced in these countries. I know, the whole “sky is falling” argument again. But really, I’m hoping to get to Prague in May, and I’m looking forward to sampling all it has to offer, especially when it comes to beer. I may be romanticizing the situation a bit, but it’s a little disheartening to hear about the narrowing beer market in places historically associated with certain beers and styles, veritable Meccas of fermented grain.

Alas, that seems to be the path we’re on these days.


At the aforementioned Dogfish Head beer and cheese pairing I sampled a formidable French cow’s milk cheese that hailed from Lorraine in northeast France. Bordering its sister region Alsace as well as Germany, Lorraine is also home to Les Brasseurs de Lorraine, located in Pont-à-Mousson. Two local favorites when it comes to cheese are Alsatian Munster and Grès des Vosges, which are both aromatic cow’s cheeses with pink rinds.

The Grès des Vosges had originally been paired with the Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA, which I thought went well, but for some reason I thought I could do better. Opening the wrapping, my nostrils were filled with the smell of onion and sharp farmhouse scents, and I’m kicking myself for not pairing this with a saison or a gueuze. Tonight I’ve opened up the Southern Tier Hoppe instead, hoping to see how a balanced pale ale that’s been kicked up a notch (much like the 90 Minute) will tackle the creaminess and the funky flavors simultaneously.

The idea behind this is to see if this pairing will work based on what I imagine the key flavors to be. With no real idea as to how to pair such an obscure cheese, I’m sort of grabbing at straws here. Should I get something that would work better with a brie, or perhaps a beer that might pick up the more subtle, meaty and nutty notes? Let’s just say I’ve got Hoppe.

Biting into the cheese, I’m struck by how much funkier and onion-like it is, in addition to being quite creamy. My palate is immediately coated in a thick layer of fat as the softness of the cheese provides a lot of cover. Sipping on the Hoppe, the carbonation cuts through most of the viscous cheese and the sharpness of the piney hops parries the tangy taste. A sweet, caramel-like malt flavor brings up the rear, but seems more out of place than I had anticipated and doesn’t seem to fulfill the role I had envisioned.

While the Hoppe is a solid example of balanced brewing, being an “Imperial Extra Pale Ale”, it doesn’t quite rise to the challenge of the Grès des Vosges. The cheese is just a hair too formidable for the beer, which I think is due to my underestimation of the cheese when I first sampled it. All it requires is a swig or two more of the Hoppe and that does the trick, but I feel I could do better with the pairing.

Who knows, I may try this with a Saison Dupont soon and give you the results. Although I’ll bet an offering from Les Brasseurs de Lorraine would be unstoppable; a veritable beer terroir, if you will.

In an attempt to avoid sounding like a crotchety old man, and perhaps risking sounding like a sell-out, I’m going to applaud Australian brewers Foster’s and Lion Nathan for deciding to pull alcoholic energy drinks from the market. Aimed at RTD (Ready To Drink) products with higher alcohol contents and alcoholic beverages with additives such as taurine or caffeine, Foster’s will cap their RTDs at 7% abv. Both Foster’s Group and Lion Nathan are limiting the container volume and completely ceasing production of these malternative energy drinks, in an effort to curb irresponsible drinking by promoting a culture of moderation.

I can’t say I’ve ever been a huge fan of these sorts of drinks, and I’ve expressed my opinion about them in this very space before. But I do understand that people enjoy sugary alcoholic drinks, like ready-made margaritas or “hard” lemonade. My question is: why the energy boost? If you need a pick-me-up, drink some coffee, or better yet, take a nap. And if that’s the case, should you really be consuming a lot of alcohol?

The 7% cap on these particular RTDs may seem like a neo-Prohibitionist act here in the US, but remember, it’s self-imposed by Foster’s, and it’s not like they’re brewing up world-renowned Tripels either. Therefore, I give Kudos to their efforts and would like to see some of the larger outfits around here follow suit. Although I realize some may not be able to survive without their B-to-the-E.

UPDATE: Just came across another article related to the alcoholic energy drink craze. Drink it up.

All day I had been looking forward to checking out the Dogfish Head tasting down at River City Cellars. A local gourmet shop that primarily focuses on wine, River City Cellars also features a cache of select craft beer in addition to superb cheeses. Not only did they have a variety of Dogfish Head products for sale, poured by a brewery rep (now legal again!), but they also had a small sampling of cheese to pair with each beer.

First up was the Aprihop with a cheese from Spain called Drunken Goat. The pairing was decent enough, but it didn’t really sing to me, so to speak. The Red & White, however, went splendidly with an Australian blue cheese called Roaring 40’s Blue, with the fruity flavors of orange and Pinot Noir juxtaposed against the formidable funk of the cheese. Raison d’Etre and Black & Blue were paired adequately with a French cow cheese and an Italian sheep cheese respectively.

The standout for me was the 90 Minute IPA with the Gres des Vosges French cow cheese. Talk about buttery, this stuff coated the palate like no other, and the 90 Minute was just the ticket for such a fatty cheese. I was so impressed, I left the 90 Minute and picked up just the cheese to try with other Imperial IPAs to see how it does.

Lastly came the Burton Baton, a beer I had yet to try. This beer is a blend of the 90 Minute with an oak-aged English strong ale, and while it didn’t seem incredibly standout, there was enough of a unique quality to it that I bought a four-pack in order to sit down with a bottle in the near future. I’m wondering if the plethora of flavors on my tongue got in the way of tasting this one at the end of the line.

And sadly, there wasn’t any Palo Santo Marron to be found. Trust me, I asked. But there was some good news. While apparently Maryland and DC have already gotten label approval, Virginia just recently did so, but we should be seeing some by the end of April. I don’t want to build my expectations too high, but I’m interested to see what the eccentric mind of Sam Calagione has come up with lately.

Nevertheless, after retiring to my abode, I whipped up a simple Italian meal and settled in to watch some first-round March Madness action. At the tasting, I also picked up a 3 year-old Gouda that I sampled with Steve for the last beer and cheese pairing we conducted. It didn’t make the cut last time around, but only because we had a Gouda at the previous event. Still, I had been craving this cheese for a while, and decided to spring for a small wedge.

I sliced up some cubes and paired them with a Geary’s London Porter, which is brewed in Maine mind you, to see what magic they could make together. Although I was a bit wary, to be honest, because at that first pairing, the other aged (but still younger) Gouda we all tried went remarkably well with a Fuller’s ESB. Could I be getting too malty for my own good here?

The answer was “no”. Geary’s London Porter always strikes me as a well-balanced, easy drinking porter with not too much roasted malt and a lighter body. There are some sweeter, almost toffee-like notes that paired nicely with the more intense nutty and buttery taste of the cheese, like a complementary relationship, with one side making up in the places the other lacks. Not that either lack anything as far as taste goes, but you get my drift; good accompaniment. The carbonation battled the delicious saltiness and lifted the fat and proteins that coated the tongue. A solid pairing, even for going a little out on a limb.

If you ask me, this kind of Thursday needs to happen more often.

Come November, for whom will you cast your vote in the presidential election? If you’re a beer drinker, chances are you’re voting for Senator John McCain.

Conversely, wine drinkers would prefer to cast their ballot for Senators Hillary Clinton or Barack Obama. But somehow, I don’t feel so sure that these poll numbers add up. Voters that prefer beer give McCain an edge over Clinton, but are dead even when he matches up to Obama. Furthermore, the article states that “28 percent of all Americans say they prefer beer to wine and 31 percent say they would rather have a glass of wine than a bottle of brew. (The rest claim that they never drink under any circumstances.)”

It could be that I don’t have enough of a statistical background, or am just really out of touch with my fellow citizens, but that would mean that 41% of all Americans never drink alcohol. Supposing, for argument’s sake, that the adult population of drinking age in the United States is 225 million exactly (as I’m assuming they’re talking about all Americans age 21 or older). We’re talking about 92,250,000 teetotalers. Could that be accurate, almost half the drinking-age population never drinking alcohol in any form?

I guess these little blurbs are fun facts to throw into the seriousness of political debate, like the question, Who Do You Want to Have a Beer With? And perhaps, as someone who’s more of a beer pedant than the general populace, I look a little too in-depth at innocuous things such as this.

But further in this article from CNN is the assertion that these divergent perspectives “are really matters of gender and class – men are big beer drinkers while women prefer wine over beer, as do higher-income Americans and college graduates.” To me, this hints the wine-snob connotation in the public eye.

Maybe I’ve been reading too much Garrett Oliver or something, but I find the historical association with wine and sophistication to be a near unshakable perception that’s completely misguided; almost as if anyone who is wealthy or college educated or both should grow out of their “beer phase.” Ergo, something expensive automatically translates into good taste. Anyone in the wine world could refute that argument almost immediately when it comes to their precious vino, much of which can be purchased at reasonable prices (yes, even for the good stuff).

I’m ranting, aren’t I? Alright then, let me distill my thoughts here. First, I’m in no way endorsing any presidential candidate, but using this political article to bolster my point. Which brings me to my second item, that even though craft brewing in America is experiencing what some may consider a renaissance, there’s still a long way to go in terms of public perception and acceptance.

As I’ve said before, beer should not become or attempt to become the “new wine,” but it does deserve a lot more respect.

Tom Cizauskas over at Yours For Good Fermentables is now able to pour some Clipper City at gourmet shops all around our great Commonwealth. Turns out, he wasn’t able to do so before.

I don’t know about you, but I think it’s great to be able to sample the wares of someone who knows the ins and outs of their product. Sure, there’s a goal to sell something, and someone who isn’t a brewery representative could be just as knowledgeable. But still, I’m always up for the insight of a person who’s got a hand in the success of the business, because chances are they have all sorts of brewing tidbits and gems to impart.

As a matter of fact, the Virginia General Assembly has been tackling alcohol-related issues left and right this session. Canal boat operators can get licenses to serve alcohol to passengers, letting people imbibe freely on the waterways (as long as they’re not navigating). Amphitheatres and arenas in Roanoke can now sell wine and beer to patrons.

And, interestingly enough, in my brief online browsing session I looked over the town charter for Bowling Green, which actually has this stipulation:

…to regulate, control, license and/or tax the manufacture, bottling, sale,
distribution, transportation, handling, advertising, possession, dispensing,
drinking and use of alcohol, brandy, rum, whiskey, gin, wine, beer, lager beer,
ale, porter, stout…

Who knew such a small town would be up on their beer styles?

As a follow-up to the Blue Mountain Brewery post, I thought I’d share the link to an article in the Lynchburg News & Advance. On my visit to the best little beerhouse in Afton, there was a photographer, Chet White, snapping shots of me and Steve on our tour and tasting. This was before our other friends had arrived, and we just talked it up with him about beer and the continuous rise of craft brewing in America. You know, the usual.

Anyway, he informed us that they were doing a profile on the brewery as well as the microbrewing renaissance in general. Lo and behold, yours truly on the left side of the picture, sipping some deliciously clean Kölsch, while Steve gets a noseful on the right. Perhaps not the most flattering depiction of myself, but it’s good to see more coverage for better beer.

Came across this article in the Los Angeles Times that depicts the legal restrictions placed on better beer consumers in the state of Alabama and their efforts to circumvent antiquated laws. In honor of the on-going plight of fellow beer consumers in the Southeast, a region that has seen craft beer sales rise 31.6% since last year, I figure it’s worthy to shed some light on their struggles to pop the alcohol cap and homebrew in peace.

A while back, I mentioned the consumer group Free the Hopsboycott against Anheuser-Busch in the very same state. With support from BeerAdvocate, and now a major US newspaper bringing some national media attention to the situation, it may put lawmakers in several states in the hot seat.

Of course, you’ll get neo-Prohibitionist responses like this one from state Representative DuWayne Bridges:
“We’re losing too many kids now on the road because of drinking and driving. Why
aggravate that?”

But my answer to that would be to teach responsible drinking by de-mystifying alcohol in general. Show younger drinkers that alcohol is to be savored and respected, and work toward eliminating binge culture at 21 or earlier; you don’t have to go out and get sloshed right away. Sure, there’ll always be a segment of the population that will abuse alcohol, and kids will always want to “test the limits”, if you will. But by introducing alcohol earlier on and showing that there’s an appreciation aspect to fine wine, spirits, and yes, beer, maybe this kind of behavior can be tempered.
That being said, I often have little faith people’s ability to control themselves, and am most certainly not on any high horse myself. Still, a little education can go a long way, in my opinion. Good luck to Alabamans and their efforts to get better beer into their state.

Nestled in the Blue Ridge Mountains, amidst an endless sea of wineries, Virginia’s own Napa Valley holds a small swath of land also designated for craft beer. Not only is the ever-expanding Starr Hill Brewery located in Crozet, just outside Charlottesville, but another up-and-comer calls nearby Afton home.

Just beyond scenic Charlottesville, but before you hit Waynesboro, is the Blue Mountain Brewery. Home to such acclaimed beers as Full Nelson Pale Ale and Dark Hollow, Blue Mountain is set in some of the most picturesque landscape of Virginia’s countryside. It’s comfortable and cozy, like an old country home, only with everything brand new and a brewery attached. Inside is a classy stone fireplace, several wooden tables and a sleek bar setup that has a backing glass window featuring the fermentation tanks in the brewing area.

Brewmaster Taylor Smack is a generous and welcoming host, not to mention one with a considerable amount of beer cred. Hailing from Chicago’s famous Goose Island brewpubs as the former head brewer, in addition to running the brewing operations at the South Street Brewery in Charlottesville, Smack has obviously logged some hours as a skilled craftsman of better beer. And his new outfit is no exception.

Upon arriving at the establishment late morning on Saturday, with a fortunate break in the cloudy weather, me and Steve eagerly awaited a quick look-see at the facility. We got right in for the tour, which really could’ve just involved turning your head left, then right to see the entire place. But that’s what made it a more interesting and personal experience, which is one thing I feel this brewery strives for. Taylor gave us a rundown of the beers they produce there, some general beer knowledge, and answered a few questions we had on our minds as we wrapped up the tour.

One thing I was curious about was the brewery’s lock on hops, inquiring as to how Blue Mountain would weather the storm, especially being such a young operation working on such a small scale. Taylor replied that with his hop farm producing enough Cascades for the beers they brew, it shouldn’t be too much of a problem to supplement their supply, and they wouldn’t have to worry about purchasing that particular hop on the open market. Without their own crop, they’d be paying up to 2000% more than they would have a year or two ago for the same type of hop, as Cascades are immensely popular and increasingly scarce.

Smack then pointed out a few barrels in the corner wrapped in plastic that had been delivered. You guessed it, bourbon barrels. For their Dark Hollow release, they age an Imperial Stout (that uses English Crystal and Chocolate malt) in these charred oak barrels for 100 days to impart that bourbony goodness into the beer. The sample we enjoyed was aged in Jim Beam barrels, but for next year’s batch they had Wild Turkey barrels being filled that very day. The Beam barrel-aged bottles were still a new release, having just come out on Friday, so Steve and I grabbed a couple bottles each on the way out.

Not only that, another standout beer we grabbed was the Evil 8° Belgian-style Dubbel. Plenty of dark fruit, primarily plum and raisin, came forth on the palate on the first sip, with hints of fig and a sugary base that certainly warrants giving the place of origin on the label a second-take. Very Belgian in character, and a bold move for a small, regional brewer. Then again, Smack’s experience speaks for itself, and certainly shows in the beer. This also deserved a purchase, and a six-pack found its way into my hands quite easily after giving it a taste in the restaurant.

I’ve got to say, the food was fantastic as well. This place really has it all; lots of mountain charm, a laid-back atmosphere, and plenty of delicious food and beer. And I’ve got to give credit to their entire beer lineup, too. The Kölsch is crisp and clean, with a tinge of spiciness from the hops and a considerable amount of grainy Pilsner malt flavor. The Full Nelson was plenty hoppy for a regular pale ale, and the lager was definitely not without merit.

If you’re ever in the area, Blue Mountain Brewery should be on your list of places to visit. What better way to spend a Saturday afternoon than drinking fine beer with a good meal in the beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains?

Anheuser-Busch is at it again, reinventing the wheel with their “Great American Lager.” In an effort to woo British drinkers, assumingly to distinguish themselves from the laddish Stella crowd (or perhaps compete more directly?), they are launching a new campaign to improve their image.

Drawing on a rich history and tradition, the brewing giant will be offering 50,000 unlabeled samples to unwitting consumers, who will be provided with tasting information as well. After sending a text message to the number on the bottle, they will be informed that it’s Budweiser they’re drinking.

But that’s not all. Apparently Missouri legislators wish to make Budweiser the official “state beer.” And Matthew McConaughey wants to name his kid Bud. Wanna hear my take on it? Sure, have at it. Both sound pretty lame to me, and I’m no McConaughey fan by any stretch of the imagination, but I won’t rain on anybody’s parade, so go for it.

The only thing non-Bud related this morning is Spanish brewer Alhambra is attempting to market its Reserva 1925 as the perfect beer for Mediterranean-style meals. Being an avid consumer of most any cuisine from the Med, I’ve got to say my interest is piqued, even though this seems to be targeted for the UK market, and Spanish restaurants in particular. For a light-bodied and malty lager, this might be a great accompaniment to these styles of food, especially with those free Andalusian olives they’re giving away. I’m a sucker for a good olive, and even a medicore beer to pair with it would get a second chance from me.

As I write this, it’s quarter after five and I need a beer. Virginia Commonwealth University, my alma mater, just got their CAA title hopes pulled out from under them by a team that hasn’t beaten them since January 2003. In honor of William & Mary’s victory, and in hopes of getting my mind off such an unexpected loss, I’m cracking a Rapadou Porter from Williamsburg AleWerks.

Mahogany liquid pours from the 22oz bottle resembling coffee, showing an opaque black color when settled in the glass. There’s really no head to speak of, just a thin ring of bubbles around the top edge. The aroma indicates a unique roasted malt character that intertwines with the sweet, sugary smell of the Rapadou. For one thing, the malt notes do not seem to be too weighted to chocolate or coffee, but rather somewhere in the middle, and that’s what I mean by unique: it’s takes on a character all its own.

The label is something to be admired; a Brewmaster’s Reserve release, this one comes specially numbered as part of a limited edition set, this one in particular being 1855 of 2007. In addition to being eye candy, the label is also educational. Rapadou is “a hard brown unrefined cane sugar from Haiti” and supposedly imparts a “distinctive toffee-caramel flavor” to the beer. Let’s test that theory, shall we?

An intense explosion of roasted malt hits the palate somewhere in the middle, after being coaxed in by an enveloping sugar profile that indeed brings plenty of toffee and caramel to the table. Oddly enough, this is a perfect setup for the hops to balance in the finish, supplying just enough bitterness to calm all the roasted malt and sweet, viscous sugar. While it comes on strong, it’s actually quite tempered by surprising and fluid flavor transitions across the palate.

Alright, so maybe today wasn’t a total loss…

If ever there were a perfect day to stand around, socialize, and discover brilliant beer and cheese pairings, then Sunday was it. March 2nd, expected to be rather lionesque, gave us plenty of sunshine and a mild 60-degree high temperature that was more lamb-like than ever. That, and I forgot my camera, so no pictures at the moment (but I’m working on acquiring some from one of our guests).

To kick off the event, Steve and I developed an ordered list for the actual beer tasting, including which cheeses were recommended with each beer. Of course, we left the door open to experimentation with different combos, a few people being rather partial to the Black Diamond Aged Cheddar. I dare say this worked out even better than the first go-round, with plenty of crossover that yielded tasty results.

Just to give you some of the highlights, there were a few standout beer and cheese combinations that seemed entirely made for one another. For instance, the 2007 Brooklyn Monster barleywine with the Thomas Hoe Stilton was out of this world, with contrasting flavors that somehow seemed to meet in the middle, and the carbonation handling the transition from earthy and barnyardy to sweet and malty. Also, the Saison Dupont and Stilton matched quite well, and it even handled the Blue de Basque deftly.

The Anchor Liberty Ale, a fairly hoppy American pale ale, seemed to go splendidly with the Black Diamond Cheddar, with more of the fruity notes matching the citrus-like hop profile. The Hanssens Oude Gueuze tasted like a milder blend, but still potent, and paired nicely with the Stilton and Blue.

The biggest surprise, however, was the Left Hand Goosinator Doppelbock, primarily for its versatility. This beer could handle all four cheeses adequately, but really struck a chord with the earthy notes of the cave-aged Gruyere and the smoked bacon character of the Blue de Basque. We did add another beer into the mix last minute, the Aecht Schlenkerla Ur-Marzen Rauchbier, and this was mainly to provide a divergent take on the smoked beer category. But, it didn’t seem to show the same nimble and accommodating nature that the Goosinator possessed.

Granted, pretty much every beer had a pleasing cheese counterpart to accompany it, so all were enjoyable. I think the ability to mix and match a little more for this gathering had something to do with that, and the fact that some people who aren’t as, well, nerdy about this stuff as others were able to try some palate-changing pairings. Plus, it was a great day to just shoot the shit and talk about the beverage in our glasses. All in all, it was a success, and we look forward to putting on more of these in the near future.

Prosit!

If you’re a fan of the satirical, fake news publication The Onion, and also have a single shred of beer acumen, you may find this amusing.

Tobacco Avenue is a Richmond-based blog that pokes fun at prominent local figures and nearly everything else under the sun, but I thought the aforementioned post would at least bring a smile to some perusers of this here blog. If not, then you have no sense of humor and should have your perusing privileges revoked.


So the general idea lately has been to clear out winter beers that I need to drink, which has been a partial success, but has yet to come to an end. This Canaster Winterscotch from KleinBrouwerij De Glazen Toren is actually about two years old, with the bottling date being the 23rd of September, 2006.

Coming wrapped in a nice tissue-paper, this beer is an apparent Belgian take on a Scotch Ale and intended to be enjoyed around Christmastime, judging by the packaging. Even though it’s packaged in a brown bottle, I’m hoping the thin layer of paper kept any possible light damage to a minimum.

A three-finger, ecru collar of foam sat on top from a moderate pour, ultimately resting at about an inch while the beer warmed. When held to light, the beer had a deep, hazy ruby tone that was quite appealing. The nose gave way to dark fruit, mainly fig, that resembled an Old Ale, and I’m wondering how the aging has affected the bouquet. Holiday spice and a yeasty aroma buttress a detectable boozy scent, covering a soft, sweet malt presence.

The taste truly mirrored the aromatics, as a smooth and semi-sweet malt base introduced the beer, and led to a fig-flavored center. There was enough carbonation to lift away the heavier flavors in the finish, leaving a dry and cleaner-than-expected aftertaste. Yeast and spice were downplayed somewhat, perhaps due to the aging, but there was still a balancing hop bitterness present. Even though the bouquet seemed to belie a cutting alcohol taste, it was actually not that noticeable, which I rather liked.

It was great being able to finally get to this throwback. I’ve been holding onto this beer for some time, and while I should be getting to some of my Sam Adams Winter Classics Variety Pack, the allure of this one was too much to pass up.

All this talk of recession, stagflation, and market correction can be a sobering listen for any beer aficionado. With the hop and malt issue remaining on the tips of every beer-soaked tongue, the focus of overall economic decline, which encompasses a lot more than a few raw ingredients, can get lost in the fray.

The by-product of this appears to be mergers and downsizing, with yet another story of a brewery laying off employees. And yet again, this time it’s a larger outfit with expansive distribution. Could micro-breweries be able to weather the storm better than bigger ones?

A while back, Alan at A Good Beer Blog posted about the looming recession’s effect on the beer market. I believe that ingredient costs are just one piece of the puzzle, and smaller breweries may be able to absorb the impact from the labor side of the coin by having less employees with coverage and compensation with which to be concerned. Sure, they may be paying for it on the supply end, but could be able to stay afloat by charging a premium for beer that’s worth the extra loot. Events like Dark Lord Day may continue to draw people in droves, but the more popular, less esoteric craft brands could also survive on their flagships alone, keeping the window of opportunity open for potentially better times ahead.

At a time when craft beer is surging in sales (relatively speaking), a recession could put a real damper on things. Lew Bryson mentioned the effect exchange rates will have on imports, and the issue of dealing with extra costs involved in exporting. But, in a sense, this may be just what certain breweries need to survive, especially in a place like Norway. Knut Albert has covered the fall of some Norwegian craft breweries that struggle to grow in a smaller, legally restrictive environment. The ones still afloat have adapted by exporting their products and attempting to gain a foothold in foreign markets, Nøgne ø being a perfect example.

Not sure if this model could be applied to the United States, but with US craft beer making a bigger appearance in certain markets outside the country, it could be the kind of back-scratching arrangement smaller brewers need; competing on a local as well as a global scale. So maybe a little absorption of the economic punch now could be just what they need to keep their footing and get their second wind. But for many breweries, this could still spell a K-O in the near future.

And if you haven’t already done so, click on all those links and read the work of people who are better at writing about this stuff than I am.

With the advent of the India Pale Ale centuries ago, I’ve been wondering why there are so many Euro-style pale lagers brewed in India, only to have this permeate down to Indian culinary establishments. Turns out, I can go to a local Vietnamese place and order a McChouffe or a Westmalle Tripel, but all I find at local Indian restaurants is Kingfisher.

Well, tonight had promise, and I ventured out to a place I had yet to try. The food was decent enough, with plenty of options on the menu from which to choose. As for the beer menu, there were a couple of Indian lagers I hadn’t tried; there was Flying Horse, which caught my attention, as well as some others, like Golden Eagle, I’d never heard of before. A 22oz of that Flying Horse sounded like just the ticket for a spicy little lentil dish.

All out. “We do still have Kingfisher, Kingfisher Light, and Maharaja…”

I went with the latter. Even though I’ve tried Maharaja* before and was not impressed, I decided to give it another shot alongside some authentic Indian cuisine. Turns out, that dialed-up buttery and malt sweetness I thought to be an artificial covering for macro-brewed adjuncts and substandard hops was actually a good match for all the spiciness. Granted, I ordered the medium level of hotness for my Daal Makhani, and I think a hopped-out IPA would’ve ruined it for me. But to be honest, a simple, mediocre “pilsner” was a good pairing, which may not have turned out that way, even had I ordered the Kingfisher instead.

No, this seemed to do the trick, and it gave me even more insight about beer with food. Sure, some of these places could use an updated beer selection, which I could say about a lot of dining establishments. But the more I learn about pairing beer with food, the more I’m fascinated by what a mediocre beer can do for a good dish, and vice-versa.

Which reminds me, I’ll be posting a recap of our most recent tasting post-haste. Give it a day or two.

*not to be confused with Avery’s Maharaja. Trust me, your tongue would remember a hop-lashing like that.


I’ve been a big supporter of canning craft beer, and I’m always excited to come across different beer styles in that format. Thanks to Keith over at Brainard Brewing, I’m now able to get a taste of another canned offering that’s been outside my immediate area here in Virginia, so this glass is raised in his direction this evening.

Sea Hag IPA is a self-described “full-bodied ale with complex malt character” from New England Brewing out of Woodbridge, Connecticut. The label also boasts of having Cascade and Noble hops added to the mix, and my interest is definitely piqued.

A finger of eggshell colored head forms from a moderate pour into one of my shapely Sam Adams glasses. The beer is an orange sunburst and amber color, which takes on a certain alluring glow when held to light. In the nose, the hop profile is quite apparent… assertive but not aggressive, with a strong hint of grapefruit citrus, accompanied by sticky pine and malt-based sweetness. Basically, it smells like it’s got a well-balanced flavor, but only a taste test can confirm or deny this. To me, it seems much like a Bell’s Two-Hearted Ale in terms of the bouquet, but let’s see how it stacks up.

That round, sweet malt presence instantly provides a base for the syrupy, bitter hops to surge over the palate. This levels off, though, keeping most of the hop punch up front and toward the middle, gradually fading in the finish. That dense, oily Cascade feel does bring to mind a Two-Hearted or even a Gordon, but maybe that’s just the can connection. At any rate, it’s got just enough hop bitterness to give the palate a good kick and keep things interesting.

By no means is Sea Hag as formidable as the Gordon or as well rounded as the Two-Hearted, but it surely makes for an enjoyable quaff. I’m always grateful to be able to sample some out-of-state offerings, especially in rarer formats, and when a beer gains respect from others who can really appreciate it. At 6% abv, and being just a solid IPA (no “double” or “imperial” hop-bomb here), this is one that you can grab and sip as an easy-going afterwork beer, or something to wind down with before bed.

If you’re an obsessive calorie-counter, and are more concerned with the amount of carbs in your beer than the actual flavor, fear not; Miller Brewing has just the low-calorie libation for you. In fact, it’s “as light as it gets,” according to their slogan.
Miller Genuine Draft Light 64, which will replace MGD Light, has a scant 64 calories and only 2.4 grams of carbs in each 12oz bottle, the lowest amount in any beer on the market. Compare this with Michelob Ultra, the 95-calorie answer to living a healthy, active lifestyle and still being able to drink beer (which apparently can’t be done otherwise), or the 143-calorie Miller Genuine Draft.
 
The aim, according to Miller, is to offer variety and expand in the ever-growing light beer market, as evidenced in the release of the Miller Lite Brewers Collection. From the results of their test-market analysis, this is reportedly popular among women and younger drinkers, enough to warrant the distribution of MGD Light 64 in 10 more Midwestern states this month.

On a different note, Miller and Anheuser-Busch are under fire from a public interest group that aims to sue them over their additive-laced malternatives. The Center for Science in the Public Interest has already served the two brewing giants with notices, and plans to take them on in court.

Both Miller and A-B stand by their products, citing federal approval for brands such as Sparks and Bud Extra, and firmly denying allegations that they are targeting underage or young legal-age drinkers. Anheuser-Busch even called the actions of the Center “a publicity-generating tactic.”

All this comes on the heels of investigations fomented by several state attorneys general into potential branding and marketing to underage drinkers with colorful labels and the resemblance to non-alcoholic energy drinks.

Maybe I was a little harsh on these products in the past, but I’ll be more diplomatic this time and just say that I wouldn’t miss these products one bit if they disappeared from the market. But, I do know a lot of college kids who would be severely disappointed. So let’s keep these products alive, for the kids’ sake!

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