I like to consider myself a student of beer, somewhat in the vein of Plato: “I know that I know nothing.” Or maybe that’s more like Sgt. Schultz. Regardless, I’ve identified a certain flavor profile I can’t get enough of, and discovered the delicious offerings of a brewery I’ve been waiting to get my hands on. Both have led me to appreciate the intricacies of flavor and the challenges brewers face with Ringwood yeast.

Reining in the diacetyl notes is the biggest issue when dealing with Ringwood. I’ve heard some rumblings that many detest the strain completely because of these buttery or butterscotch flavors, but I’m a fanatic. I’m finding that amongst German and Czech lagers, that rounded diacetyl taste is what I live for; and with ales, it’s that good ol’ fashioned Ringwood yeast that hits the spot for me.

Characteristic of many classic English ales, Ringwood has gained a small cult following here in the United States. In some beer I’ve loved, such as Geary’s Pale Ale, I had no idea that Ringwood was what played such an important role; I just knew I liked it. I even mentioned the Austin model brewing apparatus used by brewers that make some of my favorite beers in my write-up of Williamsburg AleWerks a while back. There’s also an informative article on the history of Ringwood in the States that appeared in Yankee Brew News, now hosted over at RealBeer.

This past weekend I had three offerings from a brewery I’ve yet to sample anything from: Portland, Maine’s . While visiting family this weekend, I picked up some Shipyard Export, Fuggles IPA, and Old Thumper.

The Export was phenomenal.

It poured a completely transparent, coppery goldenrod hue with some small flakes in suspension, with solid head formation and retention. The aroma was somewhat grainy pale malt with a certain funk to it, almost mildewy, but enticing. There was a soft touch of Werther’s Original in the nose (a candy I loved growing up, and still do), and that infamous aroma of buttery diacetyl.

I was sold at first sip. Plenty of Pilsner-like malt, nice and grain-like, up front crescendoed to a buttery-smooth middle that faded gracefully to a slightly dry finish that left behind some of those butter notes and a subtle hop bitterness. The palate was suprisingly complex, yet reserved and relaxed. The carbonation didn’t get in the way at all, letting the whirl of flavors speak for themselves. I was truly impressed.

When I got to the Fuggles IPA, I was a bit disappointed to be honest. While expecting a shade or two more of the hop strain that lent its name to the label, I got what seemed to be like more Export. Not that this beer was horrible, just that it didn’t seem to distinguish itself from the other beer all that much.

The Fuggles IPA also looked strikingly similar to the Export, except for the fact that there were no floaties and it may have been a hair more amber in color. In the bouquet, I could barely pick up the floral aromatics of the Fuggles, but that tempting buttery scent got me again. Still, I had to wonder about the bitterness level.

Even the taste was uncannily like that of the Export, with the grainy and diacetyl profile being prevalent. There more detectable hops in the taste, with a little bitterness up front, but not much to make this one stand out, unfortunately.

I was also slightly confused as the cap for the Export stated “1992-2007 / 15 Years”, while the cap for the IPA read “Est. 1994.” But according to their website, their brewpub started in 1992, while the brewery itself began putting out a larger variety in 1994. Case closed.

At the end of the evening, I also sampled the Old Thumper, which is a Ringwood Brewery/Shipyard production, and loved it. Didn’t take many notes on it, just absorbed for what it was and marked it as “tasty” in the memory bank.

But I must say, I’m officially enamored with the Ringwood yeast strain and Shipyard Brewery now that I’ve connected the dots.

Here’s to knowing nothing!